Even before being an island of thermal springs and sea, Ischia is an island of wine. For centuries, on its steep slopes and on the terraces that seem carved into the rock, the vine has been cultivated. To know the wines of Ischia means to understand its cuisine better, because every glass tells the story of the same volcanic soil, the same sea and the same sun that give flavour to Ischian-style rabbit and freshly caught fish.
A very ancient winemaking tradition
Viticulture in Ischia has deep roots, reaching all the way back to the era of the Greek colonists who arrived on the island around the 8th century BC. According to many scholars, it was they who brought the first vines and realised how well suited the island's volcanic soils were to growing grapes. The famous Cup of Nestor, found in Ischia itself, bears one of the oldest inscriptions celebrating wine: testimony that the bond between the island and the vine has lasted for almost three thousand years.
The secret of these wines lies entirely in the soil. The ash and volcanic rock of Mount Epomeo yield soils rich in minerals, free-draining and poor in organic matter: difficult conditions for many crops, but ideal for obtaining savoury, fragrant grapes. On these slopes, over the centuries, farmers have built the celebrated terraces supported by dry-stone walls — the so-called "parracine" — which shape the island's landscape and make it possible to grow vines even where the gradient would seem prohibitive. It is a heroic viticulture, done by hand, that still preserves the charm of times past.
The grape varieties and DOC wines of the island
Ischia was one of the very first areas in Italy to obtain recognition of its Denominazione di Origine Controllata, as early as 1966. The Ischia DOC protects wines born from native grape varieties, some of which are found almost exclusively here. Here are the protagonists:
- Biancolella — the white that is the symbol of the island. A fresh, delicate wine, with aromas of citrus, white flowers and Mediterranean herbs, with a characteristic savoury, mineral note that recalls the sea.
- Forastera — another native white, softer and rounder than Biancolella, with notes of white-fleshed fruit and a full, enveloping sip.
- Per'e Palummo (Piedirosso) — the typical Ischian red. The dialect name, "dove's foot", comes from the reddish colour of the grape's pedicel. It is a wine of vivid colour, fresh, with aromas of red fruit and soft tannins.
- Guarnaccia — a red-berried variety often used in a blend with Piedirosso, adding structure and warmth to the island's reds.
Alongside the still wines, the island also produces interesting classic-method sparkling wines from Biancolella grapes and sweet passito wines, the fruit of a tradition that in recent decades some historic wineries have been able to rediscover and enhance with great quality.
Pairing with Ischian-style rabbit
When it comes to pairings, a simple and ancient rule applies: what grows together, goes together. It is no surprise, then, that the perfect wine for Ischian-style rabbit is precisely Per'e Palummo. Its fresh character and gentle tannins accompany the flavoursome meat and the tomato sauce without overwhelming them, while its natural acidity cleanses the palate of the richness of the oil and aromatic herbs.
There are those, however, who, faithful to the island's peasant tradition, prefer to stay with white. In this case the choice falls on a well-structured Biancolella, perhaps from a slightly more mature vintage: its savouriness stands up surprisingly well to the intensity of the rabbit, creating an elegant, wholly Ischian contrast between the freshness of the wine and the warmth of the dish.
White wines and fish dishes
If rabbit is the heart of the land's tradition, fish is the soul of the sea of Ischia. And here the island's whites are at their best. A fresh, mineral Biancolella is the ideal companion to seafood starters, spaghetti with clams and grilled fish: its saline note dialogues with the savouriness of the catch, enhancing its freshness.
For richer, more flavoursome dishes — a fish soup, a seafood risotto, fish "all'acqua pazza" — it is instead Forastera, with its softer, more enveloping sip, that creates the perfect harmony. Drinking a white from Ischia by the sea, while enjoying the catch of the day, is one of those experiences that sum up the whole identity of the island in a single sip.
The house wine in Ischian trattorias
In Ischia, wine is not only a matter of prestigious labels. In the trattorias and homes of the island, a culture of the house wine survives that deserves to be told. For generations, every family with a small patch of vineyard has made its own wine, kept in cellars dug into the tufa and served by the carafe, without frills, straight onto the table.
This loose wine, genuine and tied to the labour of those who make it, perhaps represents the most authentic expression of Ischian conviviality. Drinking the house wine does not mean settling for less: it means taking part in a rite of hospitality, sharing the fruit of a hard-working land and celebrating that simplicity which is the true luxury of the island's cuisine.
Discover the wines of Ischia at Nascondiglio dell'Amore
At Nascondiglio dell'Amore, the island's wines have always accompanied the dishes of tradition. From the Biancolella that enhances our fresh fish to the Per'e Palummo that marries with Ischian-style rabbit, every bottle is chosen to tell the story of the land and to complete the experience at the table.
Come and discover our pairings on the terrace overlooking the sea: take a look at our menu and book your table for an authentic journey through the flavours and wines of Ischia.